The Kitiki Mini-Kiln is a low-cost, plug-in, table-top, jewellery kiln: a 1000°C, rectangular, ceramic-fibre, front-opener, with an easy-to-use digital controller. It's the most popular mini kiln in the UK.

You can make beads, bracelets, brooches, charms, cuff-links, dolls, earrings, figurines, fingerprint keepsakes, jewellery, miniatures, model parts, necklaces, pendants, rings, seasonal decorations, souvenirs, and thimbles.

You can try Art Clay metal clay, bronze clay, copper clay, PMC silver clay, glass clay, Accent Gold, Image Transfer Solution, Metal Clay Veneer, SilverEtch, bead annealing, china paint, dichroic glass, enamels, glass fusing, sagging, and slumping, heat treating, laboratory tests, lampwork, lost-wax casting, low-fire ceramics, making jewellery, melting gold and silver, and staining glass. And work with many other materials and processes.

It's ideal for your arts centre, college, course venue, craft class, engineering workshop, glass works, home business, jewellery studio, medical laboratory, school, or technical facility. And, as it only weighs about 6kg, it's easy to take to craft fairs, demonstrations, and exhibitions.

Although Cherry Heaven is a distributor for the Kitiki Mini-Kiln, at least one company is selling a a similar kiln, the Prometheus Pro-1 and painted red, that costs about 44% more.

Although there's cross-over, most kilns have a prime function, such as annealing, enamelling, firing metal clays, glass fusing, jewellery-making, heat-treating, or ceramics. Within these, you need to think about internal size, heat-up time, electrical requirements, running costs, programmer features, and whether the kiln is to be moved often. Then, for example, jewellery only needs a small kiln, pottery needs a large hot kiln, glass panels need a flat kiln, and knife-making needs a deep kiln,

The Kitiki Mini-Kiln is generally classed as a jewellery-making kiln which usually means firing metal clays, doing enamelling, and fusing glass. It's inexpensive, so just right for a home business or a small studio. It's simple to use and heats up quickly, so great for a classroom. And it's small enough to pack away if you want an occasional hobby kiln.

To look at the pop-up photo, hold your mouse over the zoom button below: you don't need to click.

The Kitiki MiniKiln.

This comprehensive internet resource lets you research and compare kilns in your own time. There's a lot to read, but it'll help you make the right choice instead of an expensive mistake. The section about kiln furniture is very important.

For other small plug-in table-top kilns for annealing, beads, dichroics, enamelling, fusing, keepsakes, making jewellery, metal clays, mixed-media work, and porcelain, use the main-menu link below the menu bar near the top of the page.

For larger wired-in floor-standing and work-top kilns for casting, ceramics, glass work, heat treating, knife making, and raku, transfer now to Paragon Kilns using the Paragon Kilns link above the menu bar near the top of the page.

All programmable kilns work in the same way: the thermocouple checks the internal temperature regularly and tells the programmer to switch the elements on or off to control the heating or cooling rate.

When the target temperature is reached, the elements are switched off. However, residual heat in the firing chamber allows the internal temperature to overshoot the target temperature briefly before starting to fall back.

This is more noticeable at low temperatures than at high temperatures. For example: 300°C will probably overshoot to 320°C whereas 800°C will probably only overshoot to 810°C before starting to fall back. Take this into account if you're working with temperature-critical materials or processes.

During the hold-time, with the elements still off, the internal temperature falls. Although the programmer will soon switch the elements back on, the firing chamber will initially absorb some of the new heat before the temperature recovers. The continual switching of the elements on and off causes the internal temperature to cycle around the target temperature.

The actual temperature of your work will be affected, slightly, by its position on the kiln shelf, the vertical spacing of any stacked shelves, and its nearness to the elements, a lid, a door, a bead door, a window, or a peephole.

Remember that glass needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf than between stacked shelves.

Kiln doors and lids are not meant to be a perfect fit otherwise, at high temperatures, there'd be no room for expansion and the door could stick and the ceramic-fibre or firebricks could crack.

Eventually, with normal use, kilns discolour slightly, inside and outside, and some firebricks might develop hairline cracks. Remember, your kiln is a robust, versatile, red-hot tool: not an ornament.

The Kitiki Mini-Kiln is the most popular small kiln in the UK. It's suitable for small-scale work: drying and firing Art Clay and PMC metal clays, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, painting china, decals, dichroic glass, glass fusing, enamelling, and jewellery.

The Kitiki Mini-Kiln is a 1000°C, four-sided, square, ceramic-fibre, front-opening kiln, with an easy-to-use, 4-key digital controller. The Kitiki Mini-Kiln is the most popular mini-kiln in the UK.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 700W, so can use a regular mains socket. It's small enough to use in your home, school, craft workshop, jewellery studio, or course venue, as it only weighs about 6Kg.

The outer steel case measures 224mm x 244mm x 274mm, and is slotted for air circulation: so it keeps cool. The door is hinged on the left, opens 90°, and has a small vent-hole for processes that release fumes. The vent also serves as a peephole: it's not a glass window.

The ceramic firing chamber, enclosed in an inner steel case, measures 113mm x 135mm x 66mm internally, and heats from the top, sides, and bottom, with the fast-firing elements safely embedded in the ceramic fibre.

The MiniKiln doesn't have a programmer. However, the controller allows you to adjust the maximum temperature, and the heating and cooling rate.

The recommended furniture kit, included in the price, consists of one hard ceramic-fibre shelf 100mm x 120mm x 10mm for metal clays, enamels, and glass. You can buy extra shelf kits in the on-line shop.
For enamelling and glass fusing, you'll need to put kiln paper on the shelf to stop anything sticking: it's simpler and cleaner to use than glass separator. You can buy shelf paper in the on-line shop.

Although there's cross-over, 1000°C front-opening ceramic-fibre kilns that heat and cool quickly, such as the Mini-Kiln, are preferred for Art Clay and PMC metal clays, dichroic glasses, enamelling, and mixed-media jewellery.

Ceramics, porcelain, pottery, and stoneware, need 1290°C firebrick kilns that heat and cool evenly, such as those in the Caldera and FireFly series. Firebrick kilns are better suited to continual high temperatures.

The Mini-Kiln elements are embedded in ceramic fibre, an important safety feature if you like to open the door whilst you work. However, never get careless: kilns are very hot and connected to the mains.

It's very important to understand that the Mini-Kiln has a controller, not a programmer. There are limitations, although you may be perfectly happy with what it can do rather than unhappy with what it can't.

The MiniKiln has a smaller firing chamber than that of the SC2, so you can't fill three shelves with twenty-four pieces of jewellery: just four or five average things on the floor of the firing chamber, on a ceramic-fibre cloth or shelf. And it heats to 1000°C, not 1095°C.

The Mini-Kiln door opens 90° so, unless the kiln has cooled completely, you need to careful not to burn your hand taking pieces out. The SC-2 door opens 180°.

The SC-2 programmer allows you to set up, and re-use, four accurate drying, heating, holding, and cooling sequences: and do something else whilst the sequence is running. A sequence can consist of up to eight segments.
A segment is one step in a sequence: often the time it takes to reach a target temperature. For example: a segment could take 50 minutes to reach 650°C, could hold at 850°C for 12 minutes, or could cool down over two hours.

The Mini Kiln controller does not offer sequences and segments: it heats to a set temperature and stays there until you turn it off. For most people doing small-scale work, that's enough, although it helps if you buy a small digital timer to remind you that time's up. You can buy a digital timer in the on-line shop.

A Ramp Function can be enabled, and disabled, using a set of key presses described in the manual. A Ramp Function lets you choose how fast the kiln heats up or cools down. For example: it can heat up to 800°C over 75 minutes, or cool down from 960°C to room temperature over 180 minutes.

Generally, programmable kilns work like this: as soon as the programmer's sequence starts, the kiln begins to heat up. The thermocouple tells the programmer the current internal temperature and, depending on the sequence you've chosen, the programmer turns the elements on or off to control the heating rate, maintain the target temperature, or control the cooling rate. When the sequence is complete, the kiln beeps, and the programme stops.

For safety, the programmer doesn't switch the full mains voltage. Instead it drives a relay, an electro-mechanical switch. The programmer uses a low voltage to activate the switch which turns the high voltage elements on or off.

When the target temperature is reached, the programmer switches the elements off. However, residual heat in the firing chamber allows the internal temperature to overshoot the target temperature briefly before starting to fall back.

This overshoot is more evident at low temperatures than at high temperatures. For example: 300°C will probably overshoot to 330°C whereas 800°C will probably only overshoot to 805°C before starting to fall back.

During the hold-time, with the elements still off, the temperature falls. When the programmer switches the elements back on, the firing chamber will initially absorb some of the new heat before the temperature recovers. The continual switching of the elements on and off causes the internal temperature to cycle around the target temperature.

Regardless of the thermocouple temperature, the actual temperature of your work will be slightly different, depending on its position on the kiln shelf, the vertical spacing of any stacked shelves, and its nearness to the elements, a lid, a door, a bead door, or a window. Learn to take it into account if you're working with temperature-critical materials or processes.

Remember that glass needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf at the bottom than between closely stacked shelves.

Kiln doors and lids are not meant to be a perfect fit otherwise, at high temperatures, there'd be no room for expansion and movement, and the door could stick and the ceramic-fibre or firebricks could crack.

All kilns smell a bit during the first few firings, just like a toaster or a fan heater. If you're worried about fumes, open a window.

Eventually, with normal use, kilns discolour slightly, inside and outside, and some firebricks might develop hairline cracks. Your kiln is a versatile, robust, red-hot tool: not an ornament.

Using your kiln successfully needs critical research and frequent tests, especially as things that work for your friends or teachers might not work in the same way for you. It's also very important to learn how to creatively use unexpected effects. So, keep a firing log:

Buy a durable notebook. Use a new page for every firing, and draw diagrams of the shelves, their vertical spacing, and the position of your work on the shelves. Along with your work, put a few scraps at different places on the shelves to learn how things change. Describe the material, the shape of your work, the firing cycle, and the end result.

A kiln log is vital if you're experimenting with temperature-sensitive materials, or working with coloured dichroic glasses, enamels, glazes, or paints, and a skilled artist will use the kiln log to advantage to re-create effects.

It'll be particularly useful if you have to repeat a commission, or you have a long holiday before returning to your studio.

If the kiln has a Sentry 12-key digital programmer, it can connect to your computer using a factory-fitted USB interface. ControlMaster software, included in the price, allows you to control and monitor the firing, and organise, analyse, print out, and save the data. If you want this option, make sure you order the USB interface.

There are two popular makes of silver clay: Art Clay made by Aida Chemical Industries and PMC made by Mitsubishi Materials Corporation, in Japan. They're both clay-like materials made of fine silver powder and water-soluble organic binders.

Art Clay Silver and PMC Silver, sometimes just called silver clay, metal clay, or precious-metal clay, are easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold-time.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid 999 silver: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

Although we chose to work with, sell, and provide classes in Art Clay, both makes fire in a similar way. So any kiln suitable for Art Clay will be just as good for PMC.

If you're currently using PMC, try Art Clay. There are differences in the feel, the shrinkage, the strength, the surface lustre, the product range, the pricing, and the general commercial setup if you're running a serious business.

Currently, in January 2012, 50 gms of PMC+ Silver Clay from the UK distributor costs about 37% more than Art Clay Silver Clay. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are three popular makes of bronze clay: Bronze Clay made by ClayMania, BronzClay made by Metal Adventures, and Prometheus Bronze ProClay made by Odak. They're all clay-like materials made of fine bronze powder and water-soluble organic binders. However, they're fired in different ways:

Prometheus Bronze Clay is easy to fire: wrap your dried work in kitchen tissue or ceramic cloth, put it on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. It can also be fired in charcoal.

Clay Mania Bronze Clay and MetalAdventures BronzClay fire in a special way. Fired normally, the surface would oxidise so, to minimize this, they're embedded in activated charcoal granules in a covered stainless steel container. Charcoal made from coconut shells produces a natural bronze colour, and charcoal made from coal produces a colourful range of patinas.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid bronze, an alloy of 89% copper and 11% tin: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

The stainless steel container for the Paragon SC-2 measures 162mm x 176mm x 100mm, and holds 1 litre of charcoal. To fire larger pieces, or more pieces at the same time, you'll need a larger kiln, such as the Paragon Xpress E-12A. The container for the E-12A measures 265mm x 162mm x 152mm and holds 3 litres of charcoal.

The 1230°C firebrick E12A costs more than the 1095°C ceramic-fibre SC2. However, it's two and a half times larger than the SC-2 and is a versatile mixed-media kiln suited to continual high temperatures.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

I can't recommend one clay as being the best. There are differences in the feel, the firing, the shrinkage, the strength, and the surface patinas, so try them and experiment: they're not expensive.
However, as Prometheus Bronze Clay is easy to fire and costs less than the others, try it first? It comes as 100gm of soft clay in a packet, or 10gm of creamy clay in a syringe with three tips that you can cut or shape.

There's also Creative Bronze, which is almost certainly Prometheus Bronze Clay renamed. I'll leave it you to work out why ProBronze is £19.75 for 100gm with no delivery charge and Creative Bronze is £24.95 plus £4.95 shipping.

Currently, in January 2012, 100gms of Art Clay Silver Clay costs about 1100% more than Prometheus Bronze Clay and PMC+ Silver Clay costs at least 1370% more. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

So, if you're still in the learning phase, you can try out ideas before possibly wasting your expensive silver clay. However, bronze is a beautiful metal so, as with many materials, you need to exploit its qualities and try to produce beautiful original pieces.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are four popular makes of copper clay: Art Clay Copper made by Aida Chemical Industries, Copper Clay made by ClayMania, CopprClay made by Metal Adventures, and Prometheus Copper ProClay made by Odak. They're all clay-like materials made of fine copper powder and water-soluble organic binders. However, they're fired in different ways:

Clay Mania Copper Clay and MetalAdventures CopprClay fire in a special way. Fired normally, the surface would oxidise so, to minimize this, they're embedded in activated charcoal granules in a covered stainless steel container. Charcoal made from coconut shells produces a natural copper colour.

Art Clay Copper is easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. In most kilns, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time: so you might want more than one.

Prometheus Copper Clay is easy to fire: wrap your dried work in kitchen tissue or ceramic cloth, put it on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. It can also be fired in charcoal.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid copper: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

The stainless steel container for the Paragon SC-2 measures 162mm x 176mm x 100mm, and holds 1 litre of charcoal. To fire larger pieces, or more pieces at the same time, you'll need a larger kiln, such as the Paragon Xpress E-12A. The container for the E-12A measures 265mm x 162mm x 152mm and holds 3 litres of charcoal.

The 1230°C firebrick E12A costs more than the 1095°C ceramic-fibre SC2. However, it's two and a half times larger than the SC-2 and is a versatile mixed-media kiln suited to continual high temperatures.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

I can't recommend one clay as being the best. There are differences in the feel, the firing, the shrinkage, the strength, and the surface patinas, so try them and experiment: they're not expensive.
However, as Prometheus Copper Clay is easy to fire and costs less than the others, try it first? It comes as 100gm of soft clay in a packet, or 10gm of creamy clay in a syringe with three tips that you can cut or shape.

There's also Creative Copper, which is almost certainly Prometheus Copper Clay renamed. I'll leave it you to work out why ProCopper is £19.75 for 100gm with no delivery charge and Creative Copper is £24.95 plus £4.95 shipping.

Currently, in January 2012, 100gms of Art Clay Silver Clay costs about 1100% more than Prometheus Copper Clay and PMC+ Silver Clay costs at least 1370% more. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

So, if you're still in the learning phase, you can try out ideas before possibly wasting your expensive silver clay. However, bronze is a beautiful metal so, as with many materials, you need to exploit its qualities and try to produce beautiful original pieces.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

GlasClay is made by ClayMania in vibrant colours, based on glasses from Bullseye and Oruboros. It's a clay-like material made of fine glass powder and water-soluble organic binders. It's sold as a box of twelve colours in 12gm pots.

The colours in the table below are a rough guide, and the clay powder, mixed powders, fused glass, and re-fused glass will not all look the same. They're all COE90: read this pop-up.

As it's fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the glass powder fuses, leaving solid glass: real glass, not something that just looks like glass.

GlasClay is easy to fire: put your dried pieces on some ceramic shelf-paper on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold time.

GlasClay can be shaped easily. You can make three-dimensional objects and free yourself from the constraint of working with flat glass. The size is only determined by the support you can give it. Perhaps the most exciting opportunity is to make your own beads without a torch.

The firing temperature and time are important: glass clays have to fuse, not melt. There's a difference between fusing and melting: During fusing, the binder in the glass clay vapourises and the glass powder particles bond to make solid glass. During melting, the glass powder particles liquify and lose their original clay-shape.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are two popular makes of gold clay: Art Clay made by Aida Chemical Industries and PMC made by Mitsubishi Materials Corporation, in Japan. They're both clay-like materials made of fine gold powder and water-soluble organic binders.

Art Clay Gold and PMC Gold, sometimes just called gold clay, metal clay, or precious-metal clay, are easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold-time.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid 22 carat gold: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

Although we chose to work with, sell, and provide classes in Art Clay, both makes fire in a similar way. So any kiln suitable for Art Clay will be just as good for PMC.

If you're currently using PMC, try Art Clay. There are differences in the feel, the shrinkage, the strength, the surface lustre, the product range, the pricing, and the general commercial setup if you're running a serious business.

Currently, in January 2012, 50 gms of PMC Gold Clay from the UK distributor costs about 60% more than Art Clay Gold Clay. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

This internet resource is provided by Cherry Heaven, an international distributor, on-line shop, and support centre for electric kilns. It's not a bead, ceramics, crafts, glass, or metal-clay home-business, selling a few kilns to a market niche.

As it's on-line, there isn't a paper catalogue or a price list. However, you can mail or call a technician about kilns, power supplies, public area safety, a special project, business ideas, home diagnostics, repairs, or reselling opportunities.

Cherry Heaven is a shop in Corfe Castle village, in Dorset, South-West England. The surrounding countryside includes green farmland, dramatic cliffs, pretty cottages, historic buildings, sandy beaches, protected coves, open heathland, hill-top panoramic views, and peaceful villages. And lively seaside resorts. To look at some photos, use the dorset link.

Cherry Heaven is an EU distributor for Paragon Kilns, and has been commended for an outstanding performance as one of Paragon's top-selling distributors over 2007 to : a pleasing outcome since the UK is only one third the area of Texas and one fortieth the area of the US.

Paragon Industries started as a family business in 1948. It's now the world's leading manufacturer of electric kilns and furnaces, and has built over 420,000. The 4,800 square metre site, in Mesquite, Texas, USA, has over 70 full-time staff.

During manufacture, every kiln is checked at every stage by a technician and signed-off before shipping. They're simply but robustly engineered, and you're buying a comprehensive, versatile, safe, low-cost kiln: a kiln with a future.

Paragon kilns conform to the demanding UL 499 standard in the US, and are CE Marked for the EU. Paragon is Greek for Model Of Perfection.

The Kitiki Studio provides a comprehensive Art Clay educational programme, as classes, masterclasses, workshops, and Art Clay Level 1 and Level 2 certification courses. If you're interested, mail or call.

The on-line shop link is below the menu bar near the top of the page, on the right: you won't have to create an account, register, log on, look up your membership number, remember a password, sign up, join a club, or agree to be emailed. And the total won't be more than you expected because VAT and UK-mainland delivery are included.