Whichever material you're working with, the final finishing stages are vital if you want to achieve a high-quality finish. Typically, you would use fine abrasive paper, brass brushes, fibreglass brushes, scratch pads, burnishers, polishes and polishing cloths, and engravers.

To look at some of the finishing accessories and tools, scroll down and make a few notes. When you've finished, and looked at the other categories, use the main-menu link to return to the other pages and the on-line shop.

DREMEL ENGRAVER

The Dremel Engraver is a reciprocating engraver which uses high-speed up and down movement. It's ideal for engraving ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, and wood, or security-marking tools and equipment.

The Dremel Engraver has a soft-grip body for extra comfort and control during extended precision use. The CE-marked high-speed motor delivers up to 6000 strokes per minute and the rotary dial sets five engraving depth positions, from fine lines to deep grooves. There's a separate on-off switch.

The Dremel Engraver comes with a replaceable 9924 carbide point and a letter and number template to get you started. It's rated at 230V 0.20A, has a 1.60m cable, measures 190mm x 48mm x 42mm, and weighs just 300gm.

There are lots of things to engrave, for example: jewellery, watches, keepsakes, gifts, dog tags, tools, and equipment. A small engraved security mark identifies anything after theft, especially as it's almost impossible to remove or disguise and, unlike a label, can't be picked off.

It's not a rotary engraver. A rotary engraver uses high-speed circular movement, which is harder to control and can skid off the surface and leave an unwanted mark.

Zoom: The Dremel Engraver.

Zoom: The Dremel Engraver.

Take care opening the retail packing as the separate engraving tip is fixed to the inside: don't throw it away by mistake.

If you've never done engraving before, practice on a piece of soft metal or plastic, moving the tip slower than you would for handwriting. If you're engraving something valuable, plan carefully what you're going to do.

Security identification marks don't need to be complicated: if you don't want to use your initials, you could combine two or three shapes from the supplied stencil.

Depending on your work, there are lots of useful accessories to choose from. For example: kiln tables, shelves, posts, cones, glass separator, hot gloves, tongs, kiln paper, kiln wash, vermiculite, vermiculite trays, ceramic-fibre blocks, circuit breakers, fire extinguishers, hear resistant safety gloves, glare-resistant safety glasses, and kiln vents.

CERAMIC BLOCKS

Ceramic-fibre blocks are used to support work in your kiln, or to use as a heat-resistant surface when you take things out of the kiln. You might want to use several, side by side.

Ceramic Block.

The blocks are made from light compressed ceramic fibre, and measure 150mm x 100mm x 50mm. If you work with any fibrous material, don't get the fibres on your hands or breathe them in: ideally, you should put on kiln gloves, wear a HEPA dust mask, use protective glasses, and wash your hands afterwards.

If you do demonstrations or teach at a course venue, especially working within today's risk-assessment culture, it's vital that students are aware of the possible dangers and you provide protective equipment. Gloves, masks, and glasses are on the safety page.

If you fire anything small and round, be careful that it doesn't roll off the ceramic block and break: cut a small recess on one side? However, if you fire several pieces, make sure they don't roll together, touch, and stick.

Ceramic blocks and cloths don't last for ever and will eventually begin to break up. So it's a good idea to have spares, especially if your business depends on your kiln or you're running courses.

CERAMIC CLOTHS

Ceramic-fibre cloths, or blankets, are used to support delicate work in the kiln, either as a flat soft surface or cut into smaller pieces.

Ceramic Cloth.

The cloths are made from light ceramic wool and measure 225mm x 150mm x 6mm. If you work with any fibrous material, don't get the fibres on your hands or breathe them in: ideally, you should put on kiln gloves, wear a HEPA dust mask, use protective glasses, and wash your hands afterwards.

If you do demonstrations or teach at a course venue, especially working within today's risk-assessment culture, it's vital that students are aware of the possible dangers and you provide protective equipment. Gloves, masks, and glasses are on the safety page.

Ceramic blocks and cloths don't last for ever and will eventually begin to break up. So it's a good idea to have spares, especially if your business depends on your kiln or you're running courses.

CERAMIC PAPER

Kiln paper, often called shelf paper, consists of compressed ceramic fibres held together with a binder. It looks like normal thick paper, and can be cut to size easily with scissors.

Kitiki Ceramic Paper.

Bullseye Thinfire shelf paper, the most popular shelf paper, has been designed for smooth separation between the kiln shelf and glass, up to about 870°C. One side feels slightly smoother than the other: that's the glass side. If the paper has Bullseye logos on it: that's the shelf side. Generally, you can't re-use it after firing.

ThinFire is light and thin, so not expensive, and easy to store. It comes as single sheets, each one 520mm x 520mm square, or as a pack of four or ten. Although it's described as a low-odour paper, ventilate the room during firing as the burning binder may smell and release a little smoke.

Being thin, it may curl at the edges as the glass changes shape. If this happens, put tiny bits of glass on the corners, or cut it nearly-to-size more carefully. If you work with any fibrous material, don't get the fibres on your hands or breathe them in: ideally, you should put on kiln gloves, wear a HEPA dust mask, use protective glasses, and wash your hands afterwards.

If you do demonstrations or teach at a course venue, especially working within today's risk-assessment culture, it's vital that students are aware of the possible dangers and you provide protective equipment. Gloves, masks, and glasses are on the safety page.

Although kiln paper is much simpler, cleaner, and quicker to use than kiln wash, it does cost more. And it won't protect the shelf against ceramic glazes.

KILN SHELVES

Kiln furniture is the generic name for the supports that go inside your kiln, typically: hard and soft shelves, shelf posts, ceramic blocks, and ceramic-fibre cloths. They protect the floor of the firing chamber, support your work, ensure even heating, and allow you to stack up layers of work to be fired at the same time.

Never fire anything on the exposed floor of the kiln. If moulten metal, glass, or enamel, sticks to the ceramic fibre or firebrick, it will be very difficult to remove without causing damage. Shelves, and shelf paper, prevent this happening.

Kiln Furniture.

It's very important to understand what the recommended shelf kit consists of, why you might need a different one, and why you might need more than one:

The UltraLite, the Mini-Kiln, and the SC kilns include a light ceramic-fibre shelf for metal clays, such as Art Clay and PMC. Unless you melt the silver, your work won't stick. Nearly every other kiln has a recommended furniture kit, included in the price, consisting of the appropriate cordierite shelves and posts.

Cordierite is a magnesium aluminium silicate that resists thermal distortion and fracture. A thick heavy shelf, lifted up on small posts, heats and cools evenly: particularly important for glass work.

Cordierite is brittle: if you drop the shelf, it'll break. It's a good idea to have spare shelves, especially if your business depends on your kiln or you're running courses. You can buy extra shelf kits in the on-line shop.

Depending on the sizes of your pieces and the number of pieces you want to fire, three shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time: so you may want more than one furniture kit.

Remember that glass needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf than between stacked shelves.

For dichroics, enamelling, and glass fusing, put kiln paper on the shelf to stop the glass sticking: it's simpler and cleaner to use than glass separator. Bullseye Thinfire shelf paper, probably the most popular kiln paper, ensures easy separation between your glass and the kiln shelf. One side feels slightly smoother than the other: that's the glass side. You can buy shelf paper in the on-line shop.

Most furniture kits include 25mm x 25mm x 12mm posts. They can be used flat to lift the shelf 12mm or, on their edges, to lift the shelf 25mm. Other heights are available: 50mm, 75mm, 100mm, and 150mm.

If you take out a hot shelf you'll need to put it somewhere safe: on a tray of vermiculite, a ceramic fibre block, or some other heat-resistant surface. A kitchen tile is not thick enough: the heat will go through and might burn the work surface.

PYROMETER

The Electric Kilns Digital Pyrometer displays the kiln temperature accurately, up to 1095°C. It measures 70mm x 108mm x 25mm, weighs 155gms, and has a 1.5m plug-in wire ending in a K-Type thermocouple.

Digital Pyrometer.

The FireFly-S manual comes with this digital pyrometer, making it easy to experiment with copper enameling, control the cooling rate of difficult glazes, or monitor glass fusing and moulding.

The Caldera-S manual comes with an analogue panel meter, so a digital pyrometer would be a useful accessory. In fact, if you want to experiment with any kiln you might find a pyrometer helpful.

The liquid crystal display is easy to read, even in daylight. The 9V battery should last for 150-200 hours of continuous use. There's a low-battery indicator.

STAINLESS STEEL CONTAINERS

During normal exposed firing, the surface of the clay oxidises to form metal oxide. To minimize this, the clay is embedded in activated charcoal granules in a stainless steel container, and covered with a lid. Charcoal made from coconut shells produces a natural bronze colour, and charcoal made from coal produces a colourful range of patinas.

The container for the Paragon SC-2 measures 162mm x 176mm x 100mm, and holds one litre of charcoal. The container for the Paragon E-12A measures 162mm x 265mm x 152mm, and holds three litres of charcoal.

Kitiki Stainless Steel Containers.

A container of hot charcoal takes a long time to cool off, so a second container with fresh charcoal allows you to prepare your next batch of work.

If you want to use both types of charcoal, two containers make cleaning and storing easier, especially as both types of charcoal look similar.

VERMICULITE

Vermiculite is used to support delicate work in your kiln or, spread in a tray, to act as a soft heat-resistant surface when you take things out of the kiln.

Vermiculite.

The vermiculite in the photo is expanded hydrated phlogopite mica: the particles are very light, non-toxic, and won't fuse until at least 1200°C, about 2200°F. It comes in a 1 litre bag and will last a long time, although it will eventually break up.

If you use a tray of vermiculite, keep it covered when not in use, to prevent stray materials mixing and getting stuck to your work. Also, vermiculite particles are very light and can jump onto your clothes if your movement generates static electricity, or blow everywhere if there's a window open.

It's not easy to find vermiculite in the high street. If you do, it might have plant food or polystyrene particles mixed in: so be careful.

A multimeter lets you test electrical equipment. Using the two leads, you can typically measure continuity, DC voltage, AC voltage, DC current, AC current, and resistance.

Most multimeters are broadly the same. You usually set the range using a central dial. The most important thing is not to let the leads touch anything other than the contact points you're testing.

To look at the photo, hold your mouse over the zoom button below. The photo is 480px x 360px and about 60KB so, if you're not on a fast internet connection, it'll take a short while to download.

Kitiki MultiMeter.

The Kitiki MultiMeter is ideal for checking and repairing your kiln. You can check the mains voltage, the plug fuse, the kiln fuse, the transfomer, the relay, and the elements.

A multimeter is a useful tool. You can test batteries, bulbs, cables, christmas lights, doorbells, fuses, power adapters, relays, switches, and wires, as well check most domestic electrical equipment.

Some multimeters can check diodes and transistors, measure temperature, measure frequency, and hold the displayed result after you've taken the leads off.

Cutters and pliers are probably the most useful tools when you make jewellery, work with electronic parts, build dolls' furniture, or enjoy model engineering.

These Kitiki cutters and pliers successfully combine materials, size, precision, alignment, hardness, sharpness, and ergonomics. They're about 120mm long, easy to use, comfortable to hold, and beautifully made.

You'll enjoy using good tools rather than continually improvising. They'll help you manage a creative and efficient work environment. And they'll last a long time.

CUTTERS AND PLIERS

The pliers and cutters shown in the photo above are the four most popular. Although, in theory, the pliers partly share their uses, in practice, one is just easier to use for one task, and one for another.

Kitiki flush cutters are used to cut wire, strips, chains, and clasp links. The cutting edges are hardened and align perfectly, and the cut is nearly straight rather than oblique or vee-shaped.

Kitiki flat-nose pliers have tapered rectanglular jaws, and are used to position and adjust jewellery findings, squeeze and close links, bend wire and strips at angles, and shape paper-type metal clays.

Kitiki round-nose pliers have tapered circular jaws, and are used to shape jewellery findings, re-shape links, and bend wire and strips into curves, circles, and ovals.

Kitiki bent-nose pliers sometimes called pointed-nose, have tapered semi-circular jaws, and are used to shape jewellery findings, re-shape links, and bend wire and strips into curves, circles, and ovals.

To look at the photos, hold your mouse over the zoom buttons below. The photos are 480px x 360px and about 60KB so, if you're not on a fast internet connection, they'll take a short while to download.

Kitiki Cutters.

Kitiki Flat-Nose Pliers.

Kitiki Pointed-Nose Pliers.

Kitiki Bent-Nose PLiers.

Kitiki Round-Nose PLiers.

Before dismissing the word ergonomic, remember that the palm of your hand has around 1700 nerve endings and, every time you hold a hand tool, 42 muscles are put to work. The continual strain of using an awkward tool makes delicate work less accurate and more difficult, and can lead to strain injury or numbness.

Designing and making precision hand tools that work smoothly and accurately, and feel comfortable, is a complicated, expensive, precision process. So, here are some general comments:

Very few shops sell high quality pliers and cutters for delicate work: most pliers and cutters are designed to undo rusted nuts and cut fence wire.

Economy pliers and cutters usually use regular mild steel, inadequately hardened, and laquered to hide the poor finish. The laquer will soon wear away and the metal will rust or stain. They're often rebranded, repackaged, and repriced, with different coloured handles: so it's hard to know what you're getting.

Economy special-offer boxed sets appear to be good value. However, once opened and used, the poor quality will soon become apparent. Buying like this is unpredictable and replacing one of the set, or buying a different shape, is usually impossible as the brand will have disappeared.

Poorly machined, aligned, and hardened cutting edges will cut at an angle or unevenly, and will soon go blunt or get notched. Poorly machined and aligned jaws will make it diificult to hold small shapes reliably.

Jaws might have high spots, serrations, or roughly finished edges that will mark soft metals such as silver, copper, and gold. Jewellery pliers have smooth jaws, and are precision engineered for careful work.

If they're uncomfortable to hold, the handles can nip your skin whilst squeezing, and the sprung release-action might need too much continual pressure: tiring during precision work. Tight hinges won't release unless you use both hands.

Scissor-style hinges, rather than box-style hinges, will gradually loosen and twist as you bend and cut, making delicate work less accurate and more difficult.

Jewellery cutters are not designed to cut spring steel or stainless steel wire or strips. If you want to work with these, or other hard materials, you need special snips: mail or call.

Although it's very unlikely that you'll have an accident, it's important to take basic safety precautions when working with liquids, powders, resins, sharp tools, and hot kilns: especially if you do demonstrations or run classes. And remember, never get careless: kilns are very hot and connected to the mains.

FIRE EXTINGUISHER

If you're working with kilns, you need to be aware of the risks, however slight. It's important to have a fire extinguisher, nearby. Read the instructions as soon as you unpack it, buy a basic first aid kit, learn how to treat burns, and fit a smoke alarm.

Kitiki Fire Extinguisher.

The fire extinguisher is rated for electrical fires. It contains sodium bicarbonate, a dry chemical that is non-toxic, helps prevent re-ignition, and doesn't soak soft furnishings. It comes with a wall bracket so it can be mounted nearby.

GLARE-RESISTANT GLASSES

If you look at hot materials in a kiln, through a peephole or by opening the bead door, door, or lid, it's important to wear tinted glasses. The Kitiki glare-resistant glasses are coated to filter the harmful infra-red and ultra-violet light emitted by kilns. Keep them by your kiln and get used to putting them on every time.

Kitiki Glare-Resistant Glasses.

The glare-resistant glasses have green lenses, vented side shields, will fit over prescription glasses, and can be cleaned with warm soapy water. They conform to the ANSI Z87.1-2003 standard which defines the design, construction, testing, and use of eye protection devices, including impact and penetration resistance.

Although they're made from impact-resistant polycarbonate plastic, they're not unbreakable and the lenses are not scratch proof: so look after them.

HEAT-RESISTANT GLOVES

Heat-resistant gloves are made from a special cloth: heat-resistant not fire-proof. They're ideal for lifting out shelves or work without waiting until everything has cooled completely.

Kitiki Heat-Resistant Gloves.

The gloves are one size but, like oven gloves, are easy to work with. They'll wash at 60°C and should be dried in a warm place. Don't use dry-cleaning solvents.

HEPA DUST MASK

The 3M Advanced Electret Mask is a professional three-panel valved design which combines mechanical and electrostatic fibres: it's not just a piece of cloth on elastic.

Kitiki HEPA Dust Mask.

A unique one-way valve makes it easier to breath out, so the mask feels cooler and drier. It uses thinner material that that used in most respirators, so the mask shape feels soft and secure. They're individually wrapped to keep them clean, and use no natural rubber compounds.

All particulates represent a health risk, however minor. It's important to wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, handling charcoals, mixing or using powders, or sanding dried clays, especially at a course venue. And, ideally, use protective eyewear.

PROTECTIVE GLASSES

You probably use abrasives, some drills, an engraver, a grinder, a set of files, a hammer, polishes, a few wire brushes, and other small hand tools. This is just the time that a tiny glass or metal fragment will get in your eyes. And, although it's unlikely, some materials could flare up or explode, so wear safety glasses when you open the lid or the door: you've only got one pair of eyes.

Kitiki Protective Glasses.

The protective glasses have clear lenses, will fit over prescription glasses, and can be cleaned with warm soapy water. They conform to the ANSI Z87.1-2003 standard which defines the design, construction, testing, and use of eye protection devices, including impact and penetration resistance.

Although they're made from impact-resistant polycarbonate plastic, they're not unbreakable and the lenses are not scratch proof: so look after them.

Whichever material you're working with, the shaping stages are vital if you want to achieve a high-quality finish. Typically, you would use fine abrasive paper, drills, files, mandrels, and ring guages.

To look at some of the shaping accessories and tools, scroll down and make a few notes. When you've finished, and looked at the other categories, use the main-menu link to return to the other pages and the on-line shop.

DRILL

The Kitiki Drill Kit includes a hand-held low-voltage mini-drill, a mains adapter, chuck collets, abrasive discs, grinding wheels, grinding tips, rotary cutters, wire brushes, engraving tips, polishing pads, and four small-size drill bits: a total of 60 accesories. All in a smart aluminium carrying case.

RING GUAGE

All jewellers use a metal ring-guage to make sure that they sell you a ring which isn't tight or doesn't fall off. Typically, they use a 58-piece metal ring-guide multisizer with the UK sizes A to Z, A- to Z-, and Z1 to Z6.

It's invaluable if you make rings, as you can label them correctly for sale. If you buy rings mail-order or on line, it's much better to buy the size that you know is your size, rather than guess and return.

Kitiki Ring Guage.

As with everything, you can economise: you can make a ring-sizer out of sellotaped paper or a bit of wire. However, there's no substitute for a metal ring sizer because it feels like a real ring and you can test how easy it is to put on and get off.

Your ring size will change slightly with the time of day, the year, your health, your diet, and the temperature. If you're buying a wide band as opposed to a thin one, add about a 1/4 to 1/2 size. If you're right-handed, then the corresponding finger on your left hand is generally about a 1/2 size smaller or larger.

A good jeweller can change the size of a ring by cutting the band and removing or adding a piece. However, the ring has to be heated which often means that some stones have to be removed and put back. Some are almost impossible to remove and many stones can't be heated. If you have a pattern or stones all around the ring, you might lose some detail and symmetry. So, buy the right size to start with.

Although most kilns come with programmers, it's still very easy to walk off and forget about the firing and its end-time. A digital kiln-timer is something you take with you to remind you that time's up. It's particularly useful when using the Kitiki Mini-Kiln or any similar kiln which doesn't turn itself off.

Digital Timer.

The Kitiki Digital Timer counts up to 99 minutes 59 seconds. It's easy to use: just set the minutes and seconds, and start the timer. After the elapsed interval, the timer beeps for 30 seconds, although it can be turned off at any time.

It has an easy-to-read four-digit liquid-crystal display. The slim silver and black case measures 86mm x 47mm x 16mm, and has a no-scratch magnet on the back so it can be attached to a fridge or other equipment.

It comes with a small battery which should last for several years. To maximise the battery life, the timer turns off after the alarm has sounded, although it will remember the setting for next time.

Electric Tumblers are ideal for creating an even, smooth, polished surface on Art Clay, BronzClay, CopprClay, and PMC metal clays, buried treasures, coins, glass, jewellery, metals, minerals, rocks, shells, silver, and stones.

WHY BUY A TUMBLER?

Anyone who has found shiny fragments of glass, beautifully rounded pebbles, or highly polished shells on a beach, has seen how continual fine random abrasion can shape and polish even the roughest surfaces. These beach treasures have probably been in the sea for years.

Fortunately, electric tumblers are a thousand times quicker, and a lot more convenient. Broadly, there are three types: rotary tumblers, magnetic polishers, and ultrasonic cleaners.

PHOTOS

The photos show the bodies, not the shot, grits, and cleaners that make up the kits. To look at the photos, hold your mouse over the appropriate zoom button below. The photos are 480px x 360px and about 80KB. If you're not on broadband, they'll take a short while to download.

The Kitiki Tumbler Body 1 And 2

The Kitiki Tumbler Body 3 And 4.

The Kitiki Magnetic Polisher.

The Kitiki Ultrasonic Cleaner.

SUMMARY

If this is your first interest in tumblers and polishers, the practice of cutting and polishing stones, minerals, and gems, is called lapidary.

Rotary tumblers are sometimes called lapidary tumblers, jewellery tumblers, or stone tumblers. Magnetic polishers are sometimes called vibratory polishers or oscillating polishers. Ultrasonic cleaners are sometimes called jewellery polishers or jewellery cleaners.

All the tumblers, polishers, and cleaners use water. However, as pure water is a poor cleaner, small amounts of special detergents are usually added. These detergents are called barelling compound, gallay compound, drum cleaner, or just tumbler cleaner.

ROTARY TUMBLERS

A rotary tumbler has a motor base, and a removable revolving barrel part-filled with water, mixed stainless steel shapes or abrasive grit, and cleaner. As it rotates, the metal shapes or grit particles repeatedly fall onto the material to be polished and the collective tiny scratches and impacts gradually polish and burnish the surface.

Generally, electric rotary tumblers are used for Art Clay, BronzClay, CopprClay, and PMC metal clays, buried treasures, coins, glass, jewellery, metals, minerals, rocks, shells, silver, and stones, although there are archeological, engineering, and geological applications.

Whichever one you choose, you'll need a motor base, a barrel or drum, mixed stainless steel shapes or various grades of abrasive grit, and some cleaner. These can be bought separately but it costs less to buy a complete kit. Although described as kits to simplify the descriptions, there are component variations shown in the on-line shop.

The Kitiki Rotary Tumbler Kit 1 is a home-use rotary tumbler, ideal for metal clays such as Art Clay, Bronze Clay, Copper Clay, and PMC, jewellery, and silver. It consists of an electric motor base, a 700gm plastic barrel, 500gms of mixed stainless steel shot and shapes, and 175gms of barrelling compound to keep the drum clean.

The Kitiki Rotary Tumbler Kit 2 is a home-use rotary tumbler, ideal for buried treasures, coins, glass, metals, minerals, rocks, shells, and stones. It consists of an electric motor base, a 700gm plastic barrel, 200gms of 80 grit, 200gms of 220 grit, 200gms of 400 grit, 150 gms of cerium oxide polish, and one pack of plastic pellets.

The Kitiki Rotary Tumbler Kit 3 is a studio-use rotary tumbler, ideal for metal clays such as Art Clay, Bronze Clay, Copper Clay, and PMC, jewellery, and silver. It consists of an electric motor base, a 950gm rubber barrel, 1000gms of mixed stainless steel shot and shapes, and 175gms of barrelling compound to keep the drum clean. The motor base is longer than that in Kits 1 and 2 and can hold two 510gm rubber drums, but not two 700gm plastic drums.

The Kitiki Rotary Tumbler Kit 4 is a studio-use rotary tumbler, ideal for buried treasures, coins, glass, metals, minerals, rocks, shells, and stones. It consists of an electric motor base, a 950gm rubber barrel, 200gms of 80 grit, 200gms of 220 grit, 200gms of 400 grit, 150 gms of cerium oxide polish, and one pack of plastic pellets. The motor base is longer than that in Kits 1 and 2 and can hold two 510gm rubber drums, but not two 700gm plastic drums.

MAGNETIC POLISHERS

A magnetic polisher has a motor base with a removable stationary drum part-filled with water, stainless steel pins, and cleaner. A rotating magnetic field makes the pins jump randomly and the collective tiny scratches and impacts gradually polish and burnish the surface.

Generally, magnetic polishers are used for small, delicate, intricate shapes that don't need a lot of finishing. They hold less, and are more expensive, than rotary tumblers, but are quieter, quicker, and simpler to fill and empty.

The Kitiki Magnetic Polisher is ideal for Art Clay and PMC metal clays, copper, gold, jewellery, and silver. It consists of a magnetic oscillator base, a lift-off acrylic drum, a plastic lid, 80gms of tiny stainless steel pins, and a spare fuse.

ULTRASONIC CLEANERS

An ultrasonic cleaner has a fixed stationary chamber, part-filled with water and cleaner: no shot, no grit. Electronically generated ultrasonic waves create minute bubbles which, during the low pressure part of each wave, grow until, during the high pressure part of the wave, they're compressed and implode. The energy released cleans the objects inside.

The Kitiki Ultrasonic Cleaner is ideal for cleaning jewellery and other objects, restoring their sparkle. It won't put a shine on a rough surface. However, they're inexpensive and very quick. It consists of a container base and a lift-out basket.

NOTES

The stainless steel shot is a mix of differently-sized pins, planetoids, rods, and spheres, chosen to deal with the diverse range of contours on jewellery.

Although the shot is 100% stainless steel, don't leave it lying around wet: either leave it immersed in the tumbler mix of water and cleaner, or rinse it and dry it carefully.

If you need to replace the shot, don't economise and buy plain or mixed steel: unless you're meticulous about cleaning and drying it every time, it'll soon rust, make a mess, and ruin your work.

Grit is the generic name for the abrasive particles used to grind and polish. Generally, it's silicon carbide: a hard, sharp, angular material which gradually fractures into smaller angular particles, making it an effective abrasive. However, unlike shot, it does need replacing eventually.

80 grit is classed as medium, 220 as fine, and 400 as very fine. However, you'll soon learn which grits to use, and for how long, for different materials, shapes, and finishes.

If you're intending to tumble a lot of glass and stones, four drums make cleaning and storing easier, especially as the three grits look similar and the polish must be kept grit-free. However, it makes more sense to use a larger tumbler so that you can use two drums, with different abrasives, at the same time.

If you want to do shot-tumbling and grit-tumbling, you should use two barrels: marked so that you don't mixed them up. One stray grit particle caught in the drum will scratch your shot-tumbled work: the scratches are quite hard to remove.

A silicon lubricant is used during the manufacture of rubber drums. Before use, clean the drum with a scouring pad and some washing-up liquid.